Mark Best (Marque in Surry Hills) has taken over from The Woods, to reopen the space as Pei Modern, on the ground floor of the Four Seasons Hotel Sydney. Originally opening Pei Modern in Melbourne in 2012, popular dishes have made their way to Sydney to be served as “everyday food”.
Clyde River rock oysters from Ewan McAsh, South Coast NSW $4.50 ea
Gorgeous and fresh with just a hint of saltiness. While the vinaigrette was lovely in its sharp flavour, I found the plump and meaty natural oysters to be my favourite.
Duck liver parfait doughnut $5 ea
Doughnuts. Duck liver parfait. In what magic did Mark Best come up with this utter decadence. The doughnut was soft and airy encasing the rich and smooth parfait. I was absolutely blown away by this.
Beef tartare, local sea urchin and horseradish on toast $20
Sea urchin or uni has become such a massive thing over the past year, popping up in just about every cuisine in some way, shape or form. Today its perched proudly on top of little mounds of beef tartar. Interestingly replacing the traditional egg yolk, the uni brings its own distinct flavour and creaminess to the beef making this a very unique dish.
Salt cod croquettes – 6 pieces $13.5
Like potato gems on a whole other level. These bite size croquettes were filled with a smooth cod and potato filling then crisped to just the right amount of golden brown. Served with a creamy aioli. These are a great option to share.
Burrata, fig, kohlrabi $18
I love buratta. The perfect little white bundle that when cut, bursts and oozes creamy white cheese lathering everything in its delicious subtle flavour. Going extraordinarily well with fresh figs and ribbons of kohlrabi, a new one even for me, it taste like fresh, crunchy broccoli stems, touched with a hint of sweetness.
Half Holmbrae chicken, squash and butter beans $38
On to mains with this generous pan of roasted chicken. Tender and succulent with a simple jus of its own creation. Served with vivid yellow squash and butter beans. This dish was simple yet effective.
250g Wagyu 7+ Flat-Iron steak $48
This steak was seriously mouth watering. Cooked so well, and due to its 7+ marbling rating the fat literally melts in your mouth giving you a velvety smooth piece of meat. On top of that it came with a rich, smoky capsicum spread that complimented the flavours of the meat without taking away from it.
Sorrel sorbet, honeycomb $16
The first of Mark Best’s signature dessert and perfect as a palate cleanser. The sorrel sorbet is mildly sweet with a clean and fresh taste that’s quite pleasant. The crunchy honeycomb adds that missing sweetness, melting in your mouth with every bite.
Duck egg sauternes custard and crostoli $17
The second signature desert, a opulent egg custard flavoured with sweet aromatic French wine. Like a sweet take on egg & soldiers, the crisp crostoli was light and sweet, adding a nice crunch to the velvety custard.
Wood-oven honey madeleines, earl grey curd $16
The winner of the night for me were these adorable little madeleines. Little sweet mouthfuls, lighter than air, they were absolute perfection dipped in the pungent earl grey curd.
Pie Modern is a superb establishment, brimming with a casual and classy atmosphere and great food. Located in the Four Seasons Hotel, you’ll soon find that this is no ordinary hotel restaurant.
In Four Seasons Hotel
199 George St
The Rocks, NSW 2000
2 Hungry Guys dined as a guest of Pei Modern